India is a part of our family’s story. My husband is of Indian descent, speaks Hindi and Bengali, and travels there frequently for work. When our boys, Vijay and Vikram, were small, we brought them along on a few trips. But it had been eight years since we’d all traveled together to India, since before our daughter, Meera, was born. So when an invitation arrived for a family wedding in Rajasthan last December, it felt like the perfect reason to return. Planning the trip, however, filled me with apprehension. Our boys were no longer little travelers content to trail along behind us through forts and museums. They were teenagers now—15 and 13—with strong opinions, independent streaks, and a finely tuned radar for boredom. India, with its vastness, sensory overload, and ambitious sightseeing circuits, can feel intimidating even for seasoned travelers, let alone a family of five with kids of varying ages and interests.…