One thing Merit has done remarkably well since it launched in 2021 is craft a cohesive brand identity. I expect every single launch to adhere to certain characteristics: the vibe is easy breezy, stylishly low-key, and reminiscent of an effortless, clean girl aesthetic . When the brand launched its first fragrance, Retrospect , earlier this year, it fit that box perfectly. A soft skin scent with notes of vanilla and musk , it feels as familiar as a fragrance can get. Delicious, with thousands of five-star reviews, but definitely not divisive. Then the brand's second foray into fragrance landed on my desk—and I had to reevaluate Merit’s predictability.

Called New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum, the fragrance is everything I didn’t expect from the brand. It’s intense and dramatic, deep, moody, and shockingly sexy. Frankly, if I'd closed my eyes, I’d think this scent came from a brand like Frédéric Malle or Amouage , which isn’t a far stretch given that the expert perfumer is Dominique Ropion.…