B efore I wrote this recipe, it hadn’t occurred to me that the word “arancini” means “little oranges”, and, plump, round and golden as they are, it makes sense, too. Indeed, these robust rice balls, which are said to have come to Sicily with Arab invaders in the 10th century, are now, according to the late Antonio Carluccio , the local equivalent of a sandwich lunch.

Prep 25 min

Cook 45 min

Makes 8 large balls

For the risotto

700ml chicken stock , or vegetable stock

100ml white wine (optional)

250g short-grain rice (eg, arborio)

½ tsp salt , plus extra to season

1 very generous pinch saffron (optional)

50g parmesan , or grano padano or vegetarian alternative, grated

Black pepper

For the arancini

2 eggs plus 1 egg yolk

100g mozzarella , drained and cut into chunks

Optional other fillings of your choice – meat ragu, pesto, sauteed mushrooms, wilted or defrosted greens

170g plain flour

250g fine dried breadcrumbs (preferably not panko)

Neutral oil , for frying

Flaky sea salt , to finish…