Updated October 22, 2026 , first published November 11, 2024

Refined comfort food that overdelivers on value.

Come lunchtime on Victoria Avenue, office workers and other devotees descend upon this stall in the Lemon Grove Shopping Centre. They’re here for their fix of braised pork hock with a dark, sticky, aromatic sauce that clings to rice – comforting, generous and deeply satisfying.

After a stint in fine-dining, including at Aria, chef Omar Hsu started cooking the food of his youth during COVID, before launching an outpost in Ultimo, followed by Redfern, Broadway and now this unassuming Chatswood mall. The specialty? Taiwanese staples, served over rice. Don’t miss the three-cup chicken, a jumble of fried thigh enriched with soy, rice wine and fragrant sesame.

Or for variety, try the triple-combo don, a medley of braised pork, prawn roll and sausage.…