The annual Portland Fermentation Festival took place last week in Oregon, at a time when sauerkraut, kimchi, and other funky foods are in the social and political spotlight.

Photo-Illustration: Wired Staff; Getty Images

Waking early, I put a small jar of my sauerkraut into my messenger bag, hop on my bicycle, ride to Seattle's King Street Station, and board a train heading to the Portland Fermentation Festival , the yearly gathering affectionately nicknamed “Stinkfest.”

Usually the sheer existence of a festival like this is enough to get people revved up to come together and talk about their favorite ferments, but in an interesting twist, fermented foods are enjoying a popularity boost from a different crowd.…