When Morocco’s winning penalty hit the back of the net, the crowd inside Zikrayat, a Middle Eastern restaurant and lounge in Astoria, erupted in cheers. People danced in celebration and the high-pitched, howling trill of a zaghrouta pierced the air.

It had been a tense game between Morocco and the Netherlands in Monterrey, Mexico, on June 29. Moments earlier, our audience of dozens of Morocco fans, most wearing the team’s red jersey, had braced themselves for defeat. The North African team trailed until a miraculous equalizer in the ninetieth minute forced extra time. As the shootout began, several Moroccan players gathered in a circle on the pitch, raising their hands and reciting a religious prayer. Inside Zikrayat, time had stopped as a few lowered their heads and bated their breath while others stared at the screen anxiously. When Ismael Saibari’s goal finally settled the game, relief gave way to euphoria.…