ROQUEBRUNE-CAP-MARTIN, France — When it comes to Chanel , there will be signs.

Long before building the house that bears her name and becoming the couture figure she is best remembered as, Gabrielle Chanel “invented a myth based on signs and symbols,” said Chanel watch and jewelry president Frédéric Grangié, recalling the words of her grand-niece Gabrielle Palasse-Labrunie.

From lions and camellias to talismanic and cosmological motifs, the visual vernacular associated with the designer’s mystique is at the heart of the house’s latest “Signes & Symboles” high jewelry collection.

With its total of 85 pieces, the collection is “almost like a tribute to jewelry [and is] very different to what we have done recently,” said Grangié.

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“It’s also a bit like a treasure chest that you open and [where] you find multiple stories,” he continued.…