Big Fish Supper Club, Route 2, Bena, Minnesota; 1980. The culture of the American road has been much celebrated — and much criticized. Lawrence Ferlinghetti saw the rise of the automobile and the construction of the interstate system (which began in the 1950s) as a new form of punishment inflicted on the populace. Driving in their cars, “strung-out citizens” were now           plagued by legionnaires                                 false windmills and demented roosters…       on freeways fifty lanes wide                                                         on a concrete continent                                                …