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A local’s guide to Belgrade: the best sights, restaurants and nightlife in a city in flux

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T here’s a celebratory mood in Belgrade, the Serbian capital. For almost two years protest has shaped everyday life as a student-led movement demanding accountability and an end to corruption gathered momentum after a concrete canopy at Novi Sad’s newly renovated railway station collapsed in November 2024, killing 16 people.

Demonstrations grew into a nationwide challenge to the government and finally, last month the student-backed list won an outright majority in parliamentary elections – a dramatic shift in Serbia’s political landscape. Crowds gathered in Slavija Square, and celebrations spilled into the streets and bars. The formation of a new government still lies ahead, but the city feels full of possibility.

One of Europe’s oldest cities, Belgrade sits at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. With a large student population and a thriving creative scene, it has informal, sociable energy: cafe terraces fill during the day, while DJ bars and clubs keep the city moving late into the night.…

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