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10 Surf Myths That Just Got Wrecked by Science

Surfer·Jason Lock·about 1 month ago
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Surfing and myths go together like hand in wetsuit glove. There’s always been an element of feel that goes into quantifying a surf experience, versus what that experience actually is, or what’s going on under the hood when you look at the science. Like, the full moon myth, for example – but we’ll get to that. Given most of surfing is about feel, it makes sense this translates across to myths too. Here, we’ve collated some of the more prominent myths in surfing but if we’ve missed any out, feel free to call it out in the comments. Full Moon Means Bigger Swells False. The full moon actually means bigger tides with that stronger gravitational pull. This can amplify swell energy dependent on the spot – but it’s more about the size of the tide than the size of the moon and if it coincides with a large swell. It’s physics that’s overstated in surf lore to make it seem a bit more dramatic. Big moons, big tides. That’s the rule.…

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