Not quite Southern, not exactly Midwestern, Louisville has morphed into a singular city with revitalized neighborhoods and a vibrant food scene. Prodigal son Adam Sachs returns.

Michael Piazza

“Here comes our little parcel of love,” Patrick Hallahan says, taking the bundle from the drive-through window of the Chicken King. Immediately the car smells amazing. Hallahan is the drummer for My Morning Jacket, the Louisville -based band known for its emotive sound and loyal fans. He's also a friend, and today, on break between tours, he's volunteered to play hometown tour guide.

After a hike through Cherokee Park, part of Frederick Law Olmsted's magisterial park system that weaves green through the city, we've established an appetite. The fragrance of the dark meat and spicy potato wedges combo is intoxicating, but we resist the urge to tear open the bag. Hallahan has plans for us. We're going across the river, and the state line, to Indiana, to get a good look back at the city.…