S troganoff is a richly savoury dish of sautéed beef in soured cream named after a 19th-century count (though no one seems quite sure exactly which one). But it was only as recently as the 20th century that this age-old Russian favourite was gussied up with onions and mushrooms. Here, it has evolved again to eschew the meat altogether – and you may be surprised how little you miss it.

Prep 15 min

Cook 40 min

Serves 4

15g dried porcini

2 large onions

50g butter

Salt and black pepper

Freshly grated nutmeg , or ground allspice

300g white or chestnut button mushrooms

4 field mushrooms

250ml soured cream , preferably śmietana (see step 7)

1 tbsp Polish sarepska , or English mustard

A squeeze of lemon (optional)

Chopped chives or dill , to finish

1 A note on the fat

Don’t be tempted to reduce the amount of butter in this dish – stroganoff should never be low-fat – but do feel free to substitute a plant-based alternative, or a good rapeseed or olive oil and a plant-based creme fraiche, though you…