S pring is arguably the most exciting time for a chef, or cook. The long – really long – winter has come to an end and, as the shadows shorten, the list of ingredients lengthens: peas, broad beans, wild garlic, spring lamb … It is where nature comes into her own, because, as if by design, all of its bounty goes together in the most wonderful, natural and understated way.

Lamb shoulder cooked in buttermilk with peas, broad beans and wild garlic

Prep 15 min

Chill overnight

Cook 3 hr 50 min

Serves 6

1 lamb shoulder (2.2-2.5kg), on the bone

500ml buttermilk

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1 whole head garlic , cloves separated and smashed, but unpeeled

50g chopped rosemary

200ml chicken stock

150g podded peas

150g podded broad beans

80g wild garlic leaves

Score the lamb all over in a crisscross fashion. In a bowl, mix the buttermilk with the lemon zest, smashed garlic cloves and chopped rosemary.…