Camping at Red Bluff in West Oz desert in 2000, staring into red sunset with a cold beer, a gnarled fisho wafted a giant spliff in a vaguely northwest direction, and said, “There’s waves out there that make this look like Bondi.” He was prone to exaggeration, but underground rumors of the potential of the offshore reefs of north-western Australia circulated long before the millennium. The Abrolohos Islands, 60 kilometers west of Geraldton, had been surfed by lobster and cray fishermen for decades.   However, a further 1,000 nautical miles north, about halfway between Broome and Timor, on the edge of the continental shelf, the atolls of Scott Reef were always rumored to have waves that blended the power of Gnaraloo with the perfection of Indo. One right-hander in particular was considered the Holy Grail.  The good news is, we can confirm it exists. The bad news is that the wave, the reef, and the pristine environment are now under threat.…