Today none of my local breaks were working. One was too flat, the other two completely blown out. In short, there were no rideable waves nearby. I figured I'd drive half and hour to a super well-know and high quality break, which I haven't surfed in many years. From the looks of it in the webcam, the waves were perfect, maybe a bit big for me. Took the car and went anyway.

I get there, get some pointers from locals and get ready to go. Tried 3 times to get to the outside, but no dice. The entry is a bit difficult, you have to walk along the south side of the jetty and then time your entrance when the sets cease to come. There's a strong current taking you south, so if you can't get outside quickly, the whitewash will push you further away. And that's what happened.

Unfortunately, I've noticed my paddle speed and endurance is not exactly up to the job (I'm working during the week and can't go out), and maybe my duck dive is also not too dialed in.…