Arctic thrills and survival skills in Finnish Lapland

At Ruka, the first skiers of the year slalomed down the slopes on 2 October. Just inside the Arctic Circle, Ruka’s long snow-sure season and cosy village atmosphere make it a popular ski resort with Finnish families. The long polar nights mean there are only a few hours of dim twilight each day, but the slopes here are floodlit, so that never stops play.

The Narnia-like setting offers just as much action off the runs as on them, and in December the resort launches Ruka Guides , guided adventures from a dedicated activity centre.…