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Brisbane Gets Its Moment in the Sun

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Late one afternoon last November, Ty Simon works the room at Golden Avenue . He laughs with a pair of men in suits, tops off the glasses for a table of women in flower-patterned dresses, squeezes shoulders, and nods and smiles his way across the rest of the floor. Waiters ferry wine and coffee and platters of hummus and salads between the kitchen and the split-level dining space. Sheets of bright Queensland sun pour in through the open walls. It's Tuesday, it's lunch, and the place is full, unrushed, and lovely; it feels good to be here. Golden Avenue opened in the middle of last year as the ninth restaurant from Simon and his wife, Milan-born Biànca Marchi-Simon, through their Anyday hospitality group, which started with the Asian-inflected Longtime and went on to include Agnes , a dimly lit open-flame spot that won Australia's Restaurant of the Year in 2023. When Simon returns to our table, I remark on the hospitality that I've just seen. “Here we take a community approach,” he says.…

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