Along the coast of one of Mexico's most popular vacation destinations, writer Megan Spurrell traces the source of her seafood.

Maroma, A Belmond Hotel, Riviera Maya

This article is part of a series of stories about hunting , fishing , and foraging experiences across North America.

The turquoise, bathtub-warm water of the Yucatán is extra sudsy today. Our little skiff, known around here as an alijo, is bobbing like a toy as our captain gently tugs on a few lines descending into the water. “Paciencia,” he repeats, reaching for the next line, before a knowing draw confirms, still, no octopus.

We’re just a 20-minute boat ride from the sleepy town of Rio Lagartos, aboard the Yahilin, captained by 55-year-old Limberth Orlando Alcocer Diaz, who has been fishing since the age of eight. His parents were fishermen too; these waters provide supple mero, a white fish loved for ceviche, and juicy shrimp that Alcocer Diaz promises is some of the tastiest you’ll find in the region.…