Simmering the apples in cider instead of water reinforces their apple flavor instead of diluting it.

Long-simmering the apples uncovered reduces them into a thick butter and delivers delicious caramelized flavors.

Warm spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves brings a layered depth while lemon juice balances the sweetness.

Previous falls have found me on apple picking excursions where I seem to overzealously use my fruit picker, resulting in a bounty of apples that one couple alone can hardly consume. In these times of extreme harvests, I need to justify this apple excess. I’m always on the lookout for good ways to use pounds of apples: pies, crisps, applesauce, and most recently, apple butter .

Four pounds of mixed apples are cooked until softened, then puréed in a blender until very smooth.…