For years, “zero sugar” has been the magic phrase in the soda and seltzer aisle. But while tasting for our inaugural Pantry Awards , we noticed a new crop of bubbly beverages making the case that a little sweetness might be a good thing. Recently, a torrent of sparkling drinks has flooded in-person and online shelves , all with a dash of sugar instead of zero or artificial sweetener. Some riff on seltzer water, others on soda pops, while some reinvent heritage libations, like switchel and agua fresca—all while tasting ridiculously refreshing.

So, why are we suddenly okay with a splash of sugar? To Griffin Owens and Marcus Klein , cofounders behind Yuzuco , customers want real ingredients in moderation. “Until recently, better-for-you meant no compromise,” Klein says. “Consumers wanted no sugar, no calories, no carbs, and a fully delicious taste. It was about the ‘zero.’ Now the conversation has flipped to what’s actually in the can.”

Photo by Travis Rainey

For Yuzuco, that’s yuzu.…