Step 1

Preheat oven to 325°. Divide 1 batch Buttermilk Cornbread or 3 lb. store-bought cornbread, cut into pieces (about 14–16 cups of ¾" cubes) evenly between 2 large rimmed baking sheets and bake, tossing occasionally, until dried out and lightly browned around the edges, 40–50 minutes. Let cool at least 10 minutes. Increase oven temperature to 350°.

Step 2

Meanwhile, cook 1½ lb. breakfast sausage, casings removed if needed , in a large skillet over medium-high heat, stirring and breaking up with a spoon, until lightly browned and cooked through, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Step 3

Reduce burner to medium heat and melt 1 cup unsalted butter (2 sticks) in same skillet. Add 2 medium onions, chopped , and 4 celery stalks, chopped ; season with kosher salt . Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, 8–10 minutes. Add 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped , and 2 Thai chiles or 1 jalapeño (with seeds), chopped . Cook, stirring once, until very fragrant, about 1 minute.…