Get the first look at Agnii, the second restaurant from chef Gayan Pieris of hatted Many Little in Red Hill. Built around a huge traditional hearth, it’s got stacks of theatre – and ambition.

For seven years, Sri Lankan chef Gayan Pieris has been expanding Victoria’s understanding of the food of his homeland at hatted Mornington Peninsula wine-diner Many Little , where he serves more than just the cuisine’s familiar pan rolls and hoppers. Pieris has even bigger ambitions for his second restaurant.

Chef Gayan Pieris has big dreams for his first Melbourne restaurant. Simon Schluter

The 160-seat Agnii, which opens today at Chapel Street’s Windsor end, has been 18 months in the making.

“The issue is that not too long ago most [Sri Lankan] restaurants here were buffets, and it was branded as a ‘cheaper’ option,” says Pieris.

The tide is well and truly turning, with openings such as Dutch Rules and Hopper Joint .…