recipe

Miso butter, crispy lemon-panko crumbs and one head of cabbage make a weeknight side worth repeating

Published October 30, 2026 11:07AM (EDT)

Cabbage, ready to be topped with miso-butter and breadcrumbs (elenaleonova / Getty Images)

I have a very specific fantasy about the restaurant I would open, should someone ever hand me a set of keys and an unlimited supply of funds and optimism. It would be a little neighborhood bistro, the sort of place where the wine comes in mismatched stemless glasses thrifted from estate sales. The menus would be illustrated by hand , which sounds charming until you’ve spent an entire afternoon trying to get the shading right on a watercolor artichoke. There would be personality wallpaper in the bathroom, icy sparkling cocktails, very good roast chicken and a bread service so generous it would probably make an accountant nervous.

Fortunately, I don’t have to worry about razor-thin margins in a fantasy.…