I t was only when I sat down to taste 10 custards that I realised this was a dangerous test to judge on my own. I tried a range of ready-made offerings, from cans to cartons to tubs of fresh custard from the supermarket chiller section, some of which I found hard not to drink by the pint.

I analysed each custard for aroma, texture and taste, and awarded extra points for minimal processing and the use of free-range eggs; I deducted points for the inclusion of palm oil, modified maize starches and colourings, all of which are often used to replace the colour, fat and thickening ability of eggs.…