How glorious are alliums? In just about every world cuisine, onions and their allium brethren—which includes garlic, chives, scallions, leeks, and shallots—form the foundation of myriad savory dishes. These ingredients are the building blocks of French mirepoix and Spanish sofrito , Chinese stir fries , and so, so much more. “People don’t give alliums enough love,” says Kate Winslow, co-author with her husband Guy Ambrosino of Onions Etcetera: The Essential Allium Cookbook . “Our food would be much more bland without them. They can be very, very sweet and supple or they can be sharp and spicy. There are not that many ingredients that can go in so many different directions.”

Onions, whether they’re of the workhorse yellow or white or vibrant red varieties, are abundant at the grocery store and generally straightforward in their uses. But what about the diminutive shallots tucked alongside them in the produce section?…