Why It Works

Staggering the cook times ensures the pork becomes tender just as the beans finish softening, so both reach perfect doneness at the same time.

A duo of sauces—a spicy, crunchy salsa macha and a fresh, aromatic cilantro-serrano pesto—adds contrast and depth, transforming a simple pot of beans into a standout dish.

Growing up in a Mexican household, I ate beans at least a few times per week. It was typically frijoles de la olla (beans from the pot) , refried beans , or morisqueta . Beans were essential but never the star of the show; they were a side dish paired with arroz and a stew. For a long time, I didn't think of beans as anything more.

My opinion changed after a visit to Bombera , a Mexican restaurant in Oakland with a Michelin Bib Gourmand designation. The most memorable dish on the menu is charred carrots drowned in brothy frijoles gigantes and an almond-based chili oil. The dish reframed how I think about beans.…